Iquitos is the gateway to the northern Peruvian Amazon and is one of the most isolated cities in the world, since it is only accessible by boat or plane. It is here that the rubber boom of the late nineteenth century took place, making Iquitos one of the richest cities in South America at the time. One can still see the remains of this prosperous era in Iquitos´ history, in the colonial architecture with elaborate porticos and balconies surrounding the Plaza de Armas and other areas of the city.
Called the biggest party of the year in a city that loves parties, the festival of St. John the Baptist (known locally as San Juan Bautista) in the northeastern jungle city of Iquitos is a colorful event that takes place from June 23 -25 every year. It is a celebration of water, since St. John was associated with water baptism and water is the most vital element for the Amazonas region, since it is the gateway to the mighty Amazon River.
According to legend, San Juan Bautista is the patron saint of all the Amazon region. This message was said to be given to a man from the Jibaro tribe after he saw an apparition in the jungle while hunting. He proclaimed a miracle to his village, and dreamed that night that St. John the Baptist spoke to him and instructed him to build a church in his name.
The festival celebrated in Iquitos today is marked by music and dancing, and the preparation of huge quantities of the traditional jungle foods of juanes and tacacho. Juanes is a preparation made using the leaf of the bijao plant. The leaves are stuffed with rice, spices, perhaps chicken or fish, and sometimes yucca. Iquiteños consume enormous quantities of this delicacy during the festival, along with tacacho, or baked bananas, and cañazo, liquor made from sugar cane.
Iquitos and the District of Loreto in general are known for their quality of sensuality; this could be due to the intense jungle heat and relatively skimpy clothing, or Iquitos´relative isolation from the rest of the world, cultural factors, or all of the above. It is said that the best aphrodisiacs are concocted here, where shamanism is widely practiced in its myriad forms. The potions are blends of fruits and herbs steeped in cañazo.
The festival of San Juan is also celebrated in other regions of Peru and South America, but nowhere is it as sensuous and colorful as in the jungle city of Iquitos. |